Well, I made a couple major adjustments as I finished the frame. First, I put the strongbacks on adjustable jacks so that I could level it in both dimensions and compensate for my slanted driveway. I also used a clear hose filled with water to ensure all of the molds' baselines were at the same vertical position.

This next step is fun because you get to start to see the shape of your boat - even if it is upside down!

Basically, the first part of this process is marking the position of each station along the length of the strongback. All of the plans have this information clearly marked. I used a tape measure and a square to mark the position of all stations and to draw a line across the long 4x4 to guide the positioning of the vertical 2x4's.

I cut a bunch of 2x4's at a length of 3'. Then I worked station by station. First clamping the 2x4 into place, then re-measuring bottom and top of the 2x4 to ensure it was perpendicular to the long 4x4's and at the correct distance from the other stations. Once they were as perfect as possible I tightened the clamps and screwed them into the 4x4's.

Once the vertical supports are in place, the next step is to attach the station molds. Before you can attach them, you need to mark and draw in the baseline on the mold. And, you need to mark the baseline on the vertical support. It also helps to measure the width between the vertical supports in order to draw vertical guidelines on the mold. By ensuring you center the vertical guides on the mold, you ensure the mold is centered in the jig. If you look closely at the pictures, you'll see the guidelines I drew.

The transom is a bit more complicated because the angle is determined by the motor well sides. So, before attaching the transom, I had to put the motor well sides temporarily in place. You'll notice I used 2x6 vertical supports at the station nearest the transom instead of 2x4's. That extra width made it easy for me to attach the motor well sides.

I then attached 2x2's to the motor well sides in order to screw the transom into. I didn't want to risk splitting the motor well sides by screwing in to the end of the plywood.

Even though my stringers were cut by a CNC, they ended up slightly different from each other. I believe part of this variance was a result of the gluing process and part of it was caused by slight variations in the cnc cut files. Regardless of what caused the variances, I wanted to make sure they were as aligned as possible before moving on.

I attached two clamps on my work bench and loaded all 4 stringers. The straight edge (top) of the stringers attach to the sole, otherwise known as the floor. Because the floor is level, this edge of the stringer can be aligned across all four. Because the hull curves, you cannot align the stringers using the curved sides. The back of the stringers end up flush with the transom, so you can also use the back as a way to align them. Finally, since the notches all pass through common bulkheads, that is another way to make sure they are aligned.

Bottom line is that I aligned the stringers the best I could, then I used a belt sander and files to level out the straight side and back. And I did the same within the notches to make sure they were all aligned.

The "stringers" are longitudinal pieces that run the length of the boat. The have notches in them so they fit together with the bulkheads which run perpendicular to the stringers or athwartship. The bottom of the stringers follow the shape of the hull and the tops are used to attach the sole (floor).

My design calls for 2-ply construction so I need to laminate 2 layers of plywood together using epoxy. Also, because the length of the boat is greater than 8' (longest dimension for a sheet of plywood, I need 2 pieces that add up to the correct length. 2 pieces long times 2 plies means that each stringer includes four pieces. In order to simplify the joints the top ply seam and the bottom ply seam are staggered. As such, all 4 pieces of the assembly are uniquely shaped and cut.

The process of lamination is pretty simple. Basically, you align your pieces, coat both joining surfaces completely with well-mixed 2-part marine epoxy, and then stick 'em together. I did multiple stringers on top of each other using a sheet of plastic (drop cloth) in between to ensure the stringers didn't get glued together. Epoxy doesn't adhere to plastic!

I used clamps and some full bottles of epoxy to hold the pieces together while the epoxy dried.